Where to Eat in Paris Without Blowing the Travel Budget
Paris has a reputation for beautiful food served on beautiful plates at beautiful (and occasionally alarming) prices. But after many trips, we have learnt that the best budget eats in Paris are often found standing at a bakery counter, sharing a market picnic or squeezing into a tiny neighbourhood bistro. You do not need to choose between eating well and affording the train home.
We are Michelle and Paul, and this is our practical guide to eating wonderfully in Paris for less. We have included the things we genuinely look for: crisp croissants, excellent cheap lunches, a bottle of wine from the supermarket and enough local know-how to avoid accidentally ordering the expensive water. (Yes, we have done that too.) As a rough guide, we use €1 = $1.65 AUD, so a €10 meal is about $16.50.
Start with the best budget eats in Paris: a local boulangerie
A French bakery is the closest thing Paris has to a delicious, affordable fast-food chain. Look for a boulangerie with a steady stream of locals, a queue that moves quickly and bread being carried out in paper bags. A croissant au beurre generally costs around €1.20–€1.80 (about $2–$3 AUD), while a pain au chocolat is usually in the same ballpark. Two pastries and a coffee can make a very respectable breakfast for roughly €7–€10 ($12–$17).
For the flakiest croissant, choose one that is deeply golden, light in the hand and audibly crisp when you break it. A good pain au chocolat should shatter a little before revealing buttery layers and two neat bars of chocolate. We have discovered that the "best" bakery is often not the one with the most dramatic Instagram queue. The tiny boulangerie around the corner from your apartment may be making the pastry you remember for years.
How to order without looking completely lost
Say "Bonjour" when you enter, then ask for "un croissant au beurre, s'il vous plaît" or "un pain au chocolat, s'il vous plaît." Add "à emporter" if you are taking it away. In a bakery, it is perfectly normal to buy one pastry and eat it while walking along the Seine; just avoid stopping in the doorway while a dozen hungry Parisians queue behind you.
Our most memorable bakery breakfast started with Paul confidently pointing at a pastry he could not name. It turned out to be an enormous palmier rather than the chausson aux pommes he intended. We ate both eventually; Paris is not the place to let pastry confusion go to waste.
Build a picnic at Rue Mouffetard or Marché d'Aligre
Markets are one of the easiest ways to make a Paris meal feel luxurious on a modest budget. Pick up bread, cheese, fruit, charcuterie and something sweet, then find a park or a quiet square. For two people, a generous market lunch can cost €15–€25 ($25–$41), depending on how enthusiastically you approach the cheese stall.
Rue Mouffetard
Rue Mouffetard in the Latin Quarter is a lovely choice when you want a traditional market street close to central sights. Browse the specialist shops and stalls for a fresh baguette, a wedge of Comté, seasonal fruit and perhaps a few slices of jambon. Prices vary, so glance at the signs before you point at the most photogenic cheese. Take your picnic towards the Jardin des Plantes or Luxembourg Gardens, where your lunch comes with far better scenery than most restaurants provide.
Marché d'Aligre
Marché d'Aligre, in the 12th arrondissement, is busier, more colourful and particularly good for bargain-hunting. There is a covered market and an outdoor section, with produce, cheese, olives, bread and prepared food. We like arriving earlier, when the stalls are full and the lunch decision is still a pleasant problem rather than a frantic one. You can assemble a feast for less than the price of one restaurant main course, then eat it beside the Canal Saint-Martin or in a nearby park.
Look for a formule déjeuner at lunchtime
If you want a proper sit-down meal, lunch is usually the time to do it. Many Paris restaurants offer a formule déjeuner—a set lunch menu with two or three courses—for around €15–€25 ($25–$41) per person. A two-course deal might include a starter and main or a main and dessert; a three-course formule generally offers the full experience. Daily specials are often written on a chalkboard outside, so you can check the price before committing.
Look beyond the streets immediately surrounding the Eiffel Tower, Louvre and Champs-Élysées, where location can add a substantial premium. A few streets away, neighbourhood restaurants in the 5th, 11th, 12th, 13th, 14th and 18th arrondissements often offer much better value. The menu may be in French, but the staff can usually explain the choices. Pointing at a dish that looks good on another table is also an internationally understood technique.
We once chose a lunch special because "moutarde" looked familiar. It was mustard-heavy, naturally, and involved a piece of meat larger than expected. Paul called it a triumph; Michelle called it a reminder to learn more food vocabulary. Either way, it was excellent value.
Cafés, brasseries and bistros: what is the difference?
These words overlap in modern Paris, but understanding the general idea makes choosing a restaurant easier.
- Café: Usually casual and all-day, with coffee, breakfast, drinks, sandwiches and simple meals. A café terrace is perfect for people-watching, although sitting down can cost more than standing at the counter. Check the menu and the service price before ordering.
- Brasserie: Traditionally a larger, livelier restaurant serving food throughout the day, often with a broad menu of classics such as steak-frites, onion soup and seafood. Brasseries can be excellent, but the grandest historic ones are not always the cheapest.
- Bistro: Generally smaller and more intimate, with a shorter, seasonal menu and a neighbourhood feel. A good bistro is where we look for carefully cooked French food without the ceremony—or bill—of fine dining.
For value, we usually look for a handwritten menu, a short list of daily dishes and plenty of locals eating rather than photographing. Lunch is the safest time to test a place. If the restaurant is full of Parisians at 12.30pm, that is a promising sign; if the only customers are two tourists comparing guidebooks, keep walking.
Crêpes are fast, filling and easy on the wallet
A crêpe stand is ideal when you need something warm between museums. A savoury galette made with buckwheat might cost €6–€10 ($10–$17), while a sweet crêpe with sugar, lemon or chocolate is often €3–€6 ($5–$10). One savoury galette and a sweet crêpe shared afterwards can be a satisfying meal for two without requiring a reservation.
We prefer stands with a short menu and a cook who is constantly making fresh batter. Watch for a focused menu and clearly displayed prices. A galette complète—egg, ham and cheese—is the classic filling option, but ask what is included before adding extras.
Buy supermarket wine and make an ordinary evening special
French supermarkets are fantastic for a low-cost dinner in an apartment, hotel room with a table or picnic spot. A perfectly enjoyable bottle of wine can be found for €5–€10 ($8–$17), and many supermarkets have staff or shelf labels that indicate the region and style. Add a baguette for around €1–€1.50 ($1.65–$2.50), cheese, tomatoes, fruit and a ready-made salad, and you have an easy dinner for roughly €15–€25 for two ($25–$41).
Do not feel obliged to choose the most expensive bottle or the one with an impressive-looking label. We once bought a bottle because the name sounded romantic, only to discover that it was far sweeter than expected. It was still improved by cheese, sunset and the comforting knowledge that we had spent less than one glass of wine on a restaurant terrace.
Our Paris water trick (and other small savings)
Tap water is free in restaurants when you ask for it clearly. Say "une carafe d'eau, s'il vous plaît"—a jug of tap water, please. If you simply ask for water, you may be offered bottled water, which can add several euros to the bill. The carafe is safe to drink and usually arrives without fuss.
We also save by ordering coffee at the counter when that suits us, sharing a dessert after a generous meal and checking whether bread is included. A terrace, a table inside and a spot at the bar can have different prices, so look at the menu rather than assuming. Most importantly, take a moment to read the bill. French service is generally included, and a small additional tip is a thank-you, not an obligation to double the total.
A simple day of budget eats in Paris
Here is our favourite formula for a full day without food costs getting out of hand:
- Breakfast: A croissant or pain au chocolat, fruit and coffee from a local boulangerie: about €7–€10 ($12–$17 AUD) for two.
- Lunch: A formule déjeuner at a neighbourhood bistro, or a market picnic: about €15–€25 ($25–$41 AUD) per person.
- Afternoon: A €3–€6 ($5–$10 AUD) crêpe shared while walking, if you have not already been distracted by another bakery.
- Dinner: A casual bistro, takeaway galette or supermarket picnic: about €15–€35 ($25–$58 AUD) for two, depending on your appetite.
That approach leaves room for one memorable splurge, which is exactly how we like to travel: save on the meals that can be simple, then spend thoughtfully when something truly special catches our eye. Paris rewards curiosity more than a huge budget. Follow the locals, learn a few useful phrases, and never underestimate what a baguette, good cheese and a view can do.
For more practical planning, read our Paris travel guide for Australians, and if you are extending the trip, see our guide to the best day trips from Paris. Bon appétit—and keep a napkin handy.
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